By Gloria Seow, travelling with Timothy Pwee
28 October to 20 November 2016
This is Part 2 of our New Zealand (NZ) Trip. For Part 1, please click here. My full NZ bird list can be found at the end of this blog where I logged 55 lifers.
From Te Anau, we popped into the adventure capital of Queenstown to see what its hype was all about. Unfortunately, the constant drizzle made it a wash out. All we saw were bungy jumping at a bridge and shops with tourists huddled indoors. We moved on to Invercargill for a spot of park birding to break up the long drive. Finally, we reached the southernmost tip of the South Island in the tiny town of Bluff. We checked into the Bluff Ocean Vista Motel and our room was essentially a studio with a view of the wild coast (see photo).
We had come to Bluff in the hopes of catching the Aurora Australis (Southern Lights). But from the kp 2 predictions that night, we knew it was a lost cause. The kp index ranges from 0 to 9 and we needed a minimum of kp 5 (i.e. a geomagnetic storm) to see the fabled lights in the wee hours. We did hit kp 5 in Dunedin but it was at 9 am. Other necessary conditions include a near cloudless sky, no rain, minimal ambient light, no tall obstructions and at least 45 degrees latitude. The best chance is a north or south facing locale at 70 degrees latitude and above. With more landmass in the northern hemisphere at those latitudes, it is easier to see the Borealis compared to the Australis. My colleague was incredibly lucky to observe the Australis in Tasmania, Australia. Curiously, she could barely make out the lights with her naked eye, but only by viewing them through her camera (photos/videos).
From Te Anau, we popped into the adventure capital of Queenstown to see what its hype was all about. Unfortunately, the constant drizzle made it a wash out. All we saw were bungy jumping at a bridge and shops with tourists huddled indoors. We moved on to Invercargill for a spot of park birding to break up the long drive. Finally, we reached the southernmost tip of the South Island in the tiny town of Bluff. We checked into the Bluff Ocean Vista Motel and our room was essentially a studio with a view of the wild coast (see photo).
We had come to Bluff in the hopes of catching the Aurora Australis (Southern Lights). But from the kp 2 predictions that night, we knew it was a lost cause. The kp index ranges from 0 to 9 and we needed a minimum of kp 5 (i.e. a geomagnetic storm) to see the fabled lights in the wee hours. We did hit kp 5 in Dunedin but it was at 9 am. Other necessary conditions include a near cloudless sky, no rain, minimal ambient light, no tall obstructions and at least 45 degrees latitude. The best chance is a north or south facing locale at 70 degrees latitude and above. With more landmass in the northern hemisphere at those latitudes, it is easier to see the Borealis compared to the Australis. My colleague was incredibly lucky to observe the Australis in Tasmania, Australia. Curiously, she could barely make out the lights with her naked eye, but only by viewing them through her camera (photos/videos).
Thankfully, Bluff proffered more than dancing lights as we were to discover. Bluff is also famous for the Bluff Oyster. We savoured this deep-fried at a fish and chip shop, and it was umami-intense yummilicious. In addition, Bluff was our serendipitous first exposure to New Zealand's inter-tidal marine life. From our motel, we spied two snorkelers taking turns to skin dive for paua (New Zealand Abalone). Intrigued, we decided to check out the shoreline and had an impromptu inter-tidal walk.
A note on paua (NZ abalone): The minimum legal size for harvest in NZ is 125 mm for Black-foot Paua (Haliotis iris) and 80 mm for Yellow-foot Paua (Haliotis australis), limited to 10 abalone per species per person per day.
A note on paua (NZ abalone): The minimum legal size for harvest in NZ is 125 mm for Black-foot Paua (Haliotis iris) and 80 mm for Yellow-foot Paua (Haliotis australis), limited to 10 abalone per species per person per day.
A view of the Bluff coast, punctured with rock pools that hosted many interesting finds.
In 1.5 hours, we spotted many Chitons stuck fast to rocks. Tentatively identified as the Green Chiton (Chiton glaucus), this 5-cm long mollusc is the most common species in New Zealand. To me, it resembles the ancient trilobite, and I am not far from the truth - the Chiton's fossil record dates back 80 million years. By day, it evades predators like Oystercatchers, sea stars, crabs, fishes and sea snails, by hiding under rocks or inside bivalves. At night, it emerges to feed on algae, diatoms and encrusting organisms like sponges. I was pleased to find the Chiton in Singapore too (only in 2019), a tiny one just 2-mm long. 
(Clockwise from top) A Nerite sea snail, a 10-cent sized peacock anemone, and a mollusc of some sort, maybe a limpet? I was gratified to find one half of a shell of the New Zealand Abalone with a pretty opalescent sheen. When polished, the pearly inner surface can take on a gorgeous rainbow shine and I have seen them sold as souvenirs.
It was fascinating to find the marine flora quite different from that in Singapore. I think the white balls and green fingers both trap air to keep afloat, and they look like seaweed.
Our trip coincided with the breeding season. We encountered this Variable Oystercatcher (Haematopus unicolor) incubating its eggs on the beach. As its name suggests, it eats oysters and other shellfish including Chiton. Oystercatchers adopt one of two methods to get at their meal. They either pry the shell open or smash the shell with their bills. So their bills are either sharp or blunt depending on the technique employed. I think our bird here is a smasher.
The rock pools at Bluff were so riveting that by the time we were done, the restaurants were about to close although the sun had barely set. We were forced to settle for pies and cup noodles from a convenience store. Double yucks.
Bowing to the prevailing winds, this tree is an evocative reminder that we were in Lord of the Rings country. We did not visit any Middle Earth filming locations, although I wanted to see the famous Weta Cave movie studio in Wellington. Sadly, our itinerary was too tight to fit it in.
From Bluff, we took the Southern Scenic Route to explore the rugged coastlines and podocarp forests of the Catlins. At Porpoise Bay, Tim and I were elated to find the Hector's Dolphin (Cephalorhynchus hectori) about 35 m from the beach. This endemic is easily identified by its strange, rounded dorsal fin (see photo). It is among the smallest marine dolphins in the world at 1.5 m. Inexplicably, the resident pod of 20 individuals has been living inshore at Porpoise Bay for years. Elsewhere, the species is found offshore. Scientists speculate that perhaps food such as mullet, arrow squid, red cod, stargazers and crabs are abundant here.
Porpoise Bay has signs discouraging swimmers from approaching the Hector's. Swimmers could get lucky though, as the curious mammals are known to check them out. The South Island has a 7,000-strong population while the North Island has just 55 individuals (regarded as a subspecies). The Hector's can live for 20 years, giving birth to one calf every 2 to 3 years. Its greatest threats are drowning in gill nets and boat injuries.
Porpoise Bay has signs discouraging swimmers from approaching the Hector's. Swimmers could get lucky though, as the curious mammals are known to check them out. The South Island has a 7,000-strong population while the North Island has just 55 individuals (regarded as a subspecies). The Hector's can live for 20 years, giving birth to one calf every 2 to 3 years. Its greatest threats are drowning in gill nets and boat injuries.
A must-see at Catlins is the 20-km long Curio Bay Fossil Forest. This was our first time looking at rocks that were once tree trunks. The 'wood grain' is apparent (see photo). Exposed at low tide, Curio Bay is one of the least-disturbed middle-Jurassic fossil forests in the world. Some 180 million years ago, Curio Bay was a forested coastal floodplain in Gondwana. Volcanic debris triggered by rains flooded it for over 20,000 years, creating bands of fossilised tree stumps. Impregnated with silica, the wood and fronds turned into rock. About 100 million years ago, New Zealand split from Gondwana and drifted north. In the last 10,000 years, the current coastline was created when the sea eroded the sandstone and clay to expose these fossils.
The Yellow-eyed Penguin is one of the rarest penguins in the world. A census in 2000 recorded just 7000 individuals. Mainland and sub-antarctic populations are genetically distinct. Threats include habitat loss, chick predation by introduced mammals, disease, human disturbance, heat stress and hypothermia. Adults have to contend with predators such as sharks, fur seals and sea lions. The penguin builds a shallow nest of twigs, grass and leaves. Two eggs are laid, with the parents taking turns to incubate them.
We sampled Whitebait Fritter fried on-the-spot in an egg batter. This was at a farmers' market next to the Dunedin Railway station.
Muttonbirds are the over-sized chicks of various shearwater species, snatched from their nest burrows when almost as big as the parents. We found salted muttonbirds for sale at a Dunedin gourmet store but did not get to taste them. They look like Chinese-style waxed duck to me. In an earlier trip to Heron Island in Australia, we were tripping over Muttonbirds sitting outside their nest burrows, and calling throughout the night.
Dunedin is the second largest city in the South Island after Christchurch. It has a population of 125,000. Local and international students account for a whopping 21.6% of the populace, hailing chiefly from the University of Otago. The iconic Dunedin Railway Station, the most photographed building in NZ, can be seen at the end of this street. We hung around Dunedin for five days.
Dunedin is super hilly. This residential street climbs dramatically from St Clair's beach, lined with homes along its entire rise. The houses here are mainly three, four or five bedroom one or two storey standalone homes. Apartment blocks are only found in the city centre.
St Clair's Beach is a popular surfing spot. Even the cold is no deterrent to a day out riding the waves.
Sweeping views of Dunedin can be had from Signal Hill lookout point. We drove up a curvaceous road to watch the glowing sun slip beneath the horizon. It was really relaxing to feel the unhurried vibe of the place.
We had fun creating optical illusions of sinking abodes up on Dunedin's slopes.
Baldwin Street holds the Guinness record for the steepest residential street in the world. Rising from 30 m above sea level (asl) to 100 m asl in just 350 m, no wonder our knees felt strained when we tried walking down part of the way.
However, nothing felt steeper than Blacks Road nearby which we stumbled across. We had made a wrong turn and found ourselves staring down 700 m of steepness, double the length of Baldwin Street. The car was literally thrust forward. I was gripped with terror when I realised that we could not backtrack. It felt like a roller coaster drop, only worst. To be sure, Tim and I shrieked madly all the way down. My legs were jelly after that.
However, nothing felt steeper than Blacks Road nearby which we stumbled across. We had made a wrong turn and found ourselves staring down 700 m of steepness, double the length of Baldwin Street. The car was literally thrust forward. I was gripped with terror when I realised that we could not backtrack. It felt like a roller coaster drop, only worst. To be sure, Tim and I shrieked madly all the way down. My legs were jelly after that.
We visited Taiaroa Head for New Zealand's only Northern Royal Albatross (Diomedea sanfordi) colony on the mainland. The bonus was seeing Red-billed Gulls with their spotty chicks. There were hundreds of them nesting in unison.
The majestic Northern Royal Albatross (Diomedea sanfordi) is a marvel to behold. The top image shows a caretaker trimming the grass around an albatross's nest, juxtaposed with the bird itself to give you an indication of its massiveness.
Apart from seabird colonies, Taiaroa Head also hosts Fort Taiaroa. Over a hundred years ago, the fort helped counter the threat of a Tsarist invasion. We were guided through underground tunnels to see the world’s only restored and functional 1886 Armstrong Disappearing Gun. This hydraulic gun can be raised to fire shots, and "disappeared" back into its pit. From the Battery Observation Post, we could still observe the lone albatross at its nest.
A low cloud casting a shadow in the azure waters of Taiaora Head.
We received a hot tip to check out Allans Beach for possible sightings of the endangered New Zealand Sea Lion (Phocarctos hookeri), one of my top targets. I was ecstatic to find a petite female with whitish fur snoozing at the far end of the beach. She was not exactly a cinch to spot as her pelage blended in with the sand.
On the walk back, Tim found the male New Zealand Sea Lion. He stood near it, waiting to see if I could spot it too. I almost bumped into the brute as he slumped flat out on the sand. He too was superbly camouflaged, resembling the black rocks that dotted the beach. No wonder we had walked right by him earlier. He was easily triple the size of the female. As he slept, he grunted and fidgeted, lifting his head to look at us twice. It was thrilling to watch him from just 10 m away. If he was active, the safe distance to keep would be 20 m.
We did a spot of birding at Dunedin Botanic Garden, near the University of Otago. The profusion of blooms was stunning.
On 14 November 2016, a 7.8 magnitude earthquake rocked the whale-watching town of Kaikoura just after midnight. Thankfully, we had departed Kaikoura a few days earlier and were already in Dunedin. Sadly, the quake killed two and destroyed roads. Trapped tourists had to be air-lifted to safety. Our Dunedin hotel was not hit but some Dunedin shops experienced slight jolts that left them in disarray. The Authorities issued tsunami warnings throughout the South Island, as aftershocks are common following a major quake.
Two days after the quake, we drove along the coast to the 1.2 km long Aramoana Mole (breakwater). It was totally deserted. Built on a spit protruding into the mouth of Otago Harbour, it stems the spread of tidal sands into the harbour. Walking out to sea, the waters grew choppier and the wind gustier. We could see Taiaroa Head on the opposite shore with distant albatrosses swirling the skies.
A picture of melancholy on The Aramoana Mole: Little Shag (Phalacrocorax melanoleucos)
Out on The Aramoana Mole, I noticed a bobbing form that seemed different. A check with my bins revealed it to be a Little Penguin (Eudyptula minor). As it dived for dinner, it kept disappearing and surfacing over and over again. This was our first time seeing the smallest penguin in the world in its element. What luck! Later on at Tiritiri Mantagi, we encountered several Little Penguins snug inside their nest boxes.
Driving back towards Dunedin, we popped into a quaint hotel for coffee and Kiwi Pavlova. This classic meringue dessert is usually served during celebratory meals such as Christmas. I found the meringue cloyingly sweet, with the tart kiwi giving the dish some balance.
(Top photo) A strange but grand plant with purple flowers clustered along on a one metre long phallic-like stalk.
(Bottom photo) A caterpillar that looks like a prickly porcupine.
(Bottom photo) A caterpillar that looks like a prickly porcupine.
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| Dunedin's open coastal walks are lined with all manner of flowers growing wild. The yellow flowers are introduced Lupins, considered a severe environmental threat. There are over 200 species of Lupins in the world, originating from North and South America, North Africa and the Mediterranean. |
Some of Dunedin's sea arches and sea stacks.
(Top photo) The only slug we photographed in New Zealand.
(Bottom photo) There are three mainland gannet colonies in New Zealand. We visited the one at Muriwai, 50 km from Auckland. Even though the Australasian Gannet is a familiar sight, we were stunned at the spectacle of thousands of these sea birds nesting inches apart from one another. The closest nest to the viewing platform was just 1.5 m away. We were captivated. There was so much going on, with gannets necking (courting), swooping, bill fencing, dozing and creating an immense din.
(Bottom photo) There are three mainland gannet colonies in New Zealand. We visited the one at Muriwai, 50 km from Auckland. Even though the Australasian Gannet is a familiar sight, we were stunned at the spectacle of thousands of these sea birds nesting inches apart from one another. The closest nest to the viewing platform was just 1.5 m away. We were captivated. There was so much going on, with gannets necking (courting), swooping, bill fencing, dozing and creating an immense din.
After firing off numerous shots, I finally captured a gannet pair with an egg peeking out. My chance came when the parent stood up to stretch. This seabird typically lays one egg, incubated by both parents. The chick takes 100 days to fledge. It then wings its way across the Tasman Sea to Australia, returning to its birth colony only after three to five years to begin its own breeding cycle. The Australasian Gannet can live for 25 years.
A sweeping view of the stupendous Muriwai Gannet Colony, with 1,200 pairs that nest here from August to March each season. The nests on the sea stack are also a part of the colony. Despite the blustery and cacophonous conditions, this was one of our trip highlights.
Nesting White-fronted Terns (Sterna striata) with their downy chicks.
(Clockwise from top): Purplish marine snail shell; white casings of a marine creature; blue egg shell of the Song Thrush (Turdus philomelos) I believe, an introduced bird that is fairly common in the suburbs.
The mighty Kauri Tree (Agathis australis) can live for hundreds of years and is NZ's biggest tree. The largest Kauri tree in the world is named Tāne Mahuta at 51.5m tall and 18.8 m in girth. Tragically, this species is gravely threatened by the Kauri dieback, a fatal disease caused by the microscopic oomycete or 'water mold' Phytophthora agathidicida. Symptoms include root rot and associated rot in a collar around the base, bleeding resin, yellowing and chlorosis of the leaves, defoliation and finally, death. Kauri dieback affects trees in Auckland's Waitākere Ranges which we visited. Waitākere Ranges had footwear washing stations for hikers (the oomycete lives in soil), but this was clearly not enough to curb the disease spread. In February 2018, the Auckland Council announced the drastic move to close all forests in the Waitākere Ranges.
We feel that New Zealand is the saddest nature destination we have ever been to, besieged by a disproportionate number of environmental woes. To me, the 100% Pure New Zealand tourism campaign is marketing hogwash. It gives the impression that NZ is pristine when the opposite is true. To a regular tourist, NZ's gorgeous setting hides the fact that the country is a hotbed for invasives out-competing the natives. I would still recommend a visit though, if anything, to understand how mankind has decimated a pure habitat, and is only now making amends.
We feel that New Zealand is the saddest nature destination we have ever been to, besieged by a disproportionate number of environmental woes. To me, the 100% Pure New Zealand tourism campaign is marketing hogwash. It gives the impression that NZ is pristine when the opposite is true. To a regular tourist, NZ's gorgeous setting hides the fact that the country is a hotbed for invasives out-competing the natives. I would still recommend a visit though, if anything, to understand how mankind has decimated a pure habitat, and is only now making amends.
Some of the plants of Auckland's Waitākere Ranges forest.
The endemic New Zealand Pigeon or Kereru (Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae) is a frugivore.
A cute weevil which I found crawling on a park bench at the edge of Waitākere Ranges forest. Up close, it looks like it is wearing a gas mask and a rough-weave carpet. The position of its antenna is just so strange and cool.
Back in Auckland, our hotel was in the CBD, which feels like any other CBD in the world. Only the Bank of New Zealand (BNZ) signage places it.
On the way to Tiritiri Mantagi island where we spent one night, we passed by a container port and spotted a rainbow mist hovering over the horizon.
The ubiquitous Tui honeyeater at a sugar feeder in Tiritiri Mantagi. At 32 cm, it is one of the largest honeyeaters around.
The island sanctuary of Tiritiri Matangi is 30 km northeast of Auckland. It is one of the original wildlife sanctuaries in NZ to laboriously eradicate all introduced mammalian predators (especially the Polynesian Rat), and re-create the natural habitat for endemic species. Zealandia, which we visited in Wellington, is the mainland (i.e. non-island) equivalent. Zealandia keeps out invaders with a special fence while Tiritiri as an island uses the sea as a barrier. Originally, the 220-hectare island was farmland. The Department of Conservation was successful in mobilising volunteers to plant 250,000 native vegetation of over 30 species. Today, Tiritiri is 60% forest and 40% grassland.
The snorkeling is good at Tiritiri but it was too cold in the season to go for a dip.
A sampling of the interesting plant life at Tiritiri.
(Top photo) The skittish Stitchbird or hihi (Notiomystis cincta) was once endemic to the North Island and nearby offshore islands. Over time, it became extirpated everywhere in NZ except for Little Barrier Island. From this harrowing position, the Stitchbird clawed its way back, with re-introductions to three island sanctuaries including Tiritiri Matangi. As a nectar feeder, it is the sole member of its own family Notiomystidae.
The second photo shows a banksia-like grass, while the third image is an unidentified butterfly.
The second photo shows a banksia-like grass, while the third image is an unidentified butterfly.
I love the tangled, gnarly branches and multiple trunks of the Pohutukawa Tree (Metrosideros excelsa). Also called the New Zealand Christmas Tree, it has crimson flowers that bloom in December. This North Island endemic is planted throughout New Zealand, and even in America, Europe and Africa. Interestingly, its aerial roots allow it to cling to coastal cliffs. The Pohutukawa Tree is threatened by the introduced possum from Australia which feeds on its leaves, sometimes stripping the entire tree bare.
At Tiritiri Mantagi, we found time to poke around its rock pools and seashore area. These are some of our finds, a different assemblage compared to Singapore's inter-tidal zones.
I was pleased to spot this barely-visible 2-cm long transparent shrimp.
That night, we joined up with Canadian bird photographer Mike Ashbee. He was our room mate in the shared house. As it was drizzling outside, we chatted for an hour before heading outdoors when the rain finally petered out. Against all odds, we achieved 'The Grand Slam' of Tiritiri Matangi. First Tim found us the Little Spotted Kiwi (Apteryx owenii) foraging behind the deserted Visitor's Centre. The Kiwi started running when it detected our presence. As it had effectively 'trapped' itself between the building and the back wall, it had to run the full length of the alley to escape, giving us solid views while it lasted. After that, it simply vanished.
Then I found a huge 70-cm Tuatara under a bush, much bigger than those seen in Zealandia. This creature quickly retreated into the thick bushes. We felt incredibly lucky to see both species as they were free to roam the entire island and could be anywhere. The final win was at the boardwalk. Tim again was the hero, finding us the Morepok. This owl was calling actively, answered by another nearby. Next thing we knew, the second owl flew into sight and both mated right before our eyes. We were flabbergasted with three mega sightings back-to-back, all within 45 minutes. It made everyone in the shared house green with envy.
The final photo shows an unidentified snail that we found (perhaps the African Giant Snail). The purplish hue was cast by our red torch beams (a requirement throughout NZ and Australia to view nocturnal wildlife). We brought red cellophane paper along (triple layer) to cap our torches so as to produce a red light.
Then I found a huge 70-cm Tuatara under a bush, much bigger than those seen in Zealandia. This creature quickly retreated into the thick bushes. We felt incredibly lucky to see both species as they were free to roam the entire island and could be anywhere. The final win was at the boardwalk. Tim again was the hero, finding us the Morepok. This owl was calling actively, answered by another nearby. Next thing we knew, the second owl flew into sight and both mated right before our eyes. We were flabbergasted with three mega sightings back-to-back, all within 45 minutes. It made everyone in the shared house green with envy.
The final photo shows an unidentified snail that we found (perhaps the African Giant Snail). The purplish hue was cast by our red torch beams (a requirement throughout NZ and Australia to view nocturnal wildlife). We brought red cellophane paper along (triple layer) to cap our torches so as to produce a red light.
Our room at Tiritiri Matangi. Mike was our only roomie in the five-bed dorm. We had to use our own sleeping bags in lieu of bed sheets.
Interior of the bunkhouse, the sole accommodation option at Tiritiri Mantagi. There are three bedrooms for public use with 15 beds in total. There is probably one or two more bedrooms for volunteers. Cooking is allowed, but we mostly packed picnic food. Many international birders only do day trips as beds sell out quickly. I managed to snag two beds by shifting our itinerary around for the Tiritiri trip to fall on a weekday on the last leg of our tour.
Another shore walk produced a strange congregation of hermit crabs. A few were sparring with one other, which was fascinating to watch.
Back in Auckland, there was really nothing much of interest in the city. Even though Tim was reluctant, we ended up visiting the Sea Life Kelly Tarlton's Aquarium. Its Antarctic Ice Adventure section held tonnes of penguins, including the world's largest captive colony of Antarctic and sub-Antarctic Penguins. The Aquarium also runs a successful breeding programme. I was lucky to witness a strange act: two Gentoo Penguins (see top photo) bowing to each other. That made my jaw drop. Digging further, I found out that bowing is a penguin courtship ritual that reduces tension and aggression. It was illuminating to see penguins resting on their bellies. The bottom image shows the much larger King Penguin. The penguin pen had a pool where we could observe both species torpedoing around.
Some of the stranger fishes of NZ.
Found in the coastal regions of NZ and southeastern Australia, the 50-cm long Spiny Sea Dragon (Solegnathus spinosissimus) is a fascinating relative of the seahorse. The specimens here were harvested from Milford Sound. This IUCN Red Listed sea dragon can live in depths of up to 230 m. At Kelly Tarlton's, clusters of them were hovering in a strange horizontal stance. They were mesmerising to watch.
Stepping out of Kelly Tarlton's, we strolled along the coast toward a cluster of restaurants. Along the way, we came across remnant mangrove patches and found some crabs. I believe the mangrove is Avicennia marina subsp. australasica based on its pencil roots.
More strange plants from NZ including the phallic stalk.
On our final morning in Auckland, we visited a farmers market and feasted on the local specialties. This giant paella (see photo) looked so inviting but it was still being cooked. Even though it was gimmicky, the syringes-in-donuts set-up was Instagram-worthy and tasted divine.
Gloria's bird list for New Zealand (North and South Island) - 55 Lifers
| No. | Common Name | Scientific Name | Location(s) and Comments | Lifer |
| 55 | ||||
| 1 | Little Spotted Kiwi | Apteryx owenii | Zealandia (near entrance); Tiritiri Matangi (at Visitor Centre) | 1 |
| 2 | California Quail | Callipepla californica | Zelandia; Ashley Estuary | 1 |
| 3 | Brown Quail | Coturnix ypsilophora | Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 4 | Black Swan | Cygnus atratus | Ashley Estuary; Hoopers Inlet (Dunedin) | |
| 5 | Paradise Shelduck | Tadorna variegta | Many places (Zealandia; Picton; Avon Park (with ducklings) Ashley Estuary; Dunedin area etc) | 1 |
| 6 | Grey Teal | Anas gracilis | Ashley Estuary | |
| 7 | Brown Teal (Pateke) | Anas chlorotis | Zelandia; Tiritiri Matangi (with ducklings) | 1 |
| 8 | New Zealand Scaup | Aythya novaeseelandiae | Mount Cook area (Lake Pukaki, Tasman glacier lake etc); Lake Dunstan; Lake Te Anau; Mirror Lakes; | 1 |
| 9 | Mallard | Anas platyrhynchos | Ashely Estuary (male eclipse seen); Dunedin area (eg. University of Otago and Selwyn Drive - with ducklings); Auckland area etc | |
| 10 | Grey Duck (hybrid with Mallard) | Anas superciliosa | Rotorua (Whakarewarewa) with ducklings; Mirror Lakes (Milford Road); Dunedin area | 1 |
| 11 | Australasian Shoveler | Anas rhynchotis | Ashley Estuary | 1 |
| 12 | Yellow-eyed Penguin (Hoiho) | Megadyptes antipodes | Roaring Bay (Nugget Point hide at Catlins) | 1 |
| 13 | Blue Penguin | Eudyptula minor | Aramoana (an individual swimming and diving off The Mole); Tiriti Matangi (2 nesting chicks) | |
| 14 | Fiordland Crested Penguin | Eudyptes pachyrhynchus | Milford Sound | 1 |
| 15 | Northern Royal Albatross | Diomedea sanfordi | Dunedin Tairora Head (Albatross Colony (nesting) and flying in the sea) | 1 |
| 16 | Antipodean Albatross | Diomedea antipodensis | Kaikoura | 1 |
| 17 | Shy Albatross (White-capped Mollymawk) | Thalassarche cauta | Cook Strait | |
| 18 | Salvin's Albatross | Thalassarche salvini | Kaikoura | 1 |
| 19 | Northern Giant Petrel | Macronectes halli | Kaikoura | 1 |
| 20 | Antarctic Fulmar | Fulmarus glacialoides | Kaikoura | 1 |
| 21 | Cape Petrel/Pigeon | Daption capense | Kaikoura | 1 |
| 22 | Fairy Prion | Pachyptila turtur | Cook Strait (flying in small flocks) near Wellington | |
| 23 | Sooty Shearwater | Puffinus griseus | Cook Strait, Tairora Head | 1 |
| 24 | Fluttering Shearwater | Puffinus gavia | Malborough Sound | 1 |
| 25 | Common Diving Petrel | Pelecanoides urinatrix | Cook Strait | 1 |
| 26 | Australasian Gannet | Morus serrator | Cook Strait, Muriwai (colony nesting site); Harauki Gulf | |
| 27 | Black Shag (Great Comorant) | Phalacrocorax carbo | Zealandia | |
| 28 | Pied Shag | Phalacrocorax varius | Zealandia; many places along coastal waters both in the North and South Island | |
| 29 | Little Black Shag | Phalacrocorax sulcirostris | Zealandia | |
| 30 | Little Shag (Pied) | Phalacrocorax melanoleucos | Zealandia; Ashley Estuary; Aramoana | |
| 31 | Spotted Shag | Stictocarbo punctatus | Commonly seen in Bluff; Catlins coast; Dunedin (Tairora Head and Aramoana) flying around | 1 |
| 32 | King Shag | Leucocarbo carunculatus | Malborough Sound - one bird seen flying low just above water levels, next to our ferry | 1 |
| 33 | Otago Shag (split from Foveaux Shag) | Phalacrocorax chalconotus | Dunedin (Tairora Head and Aramoana) flying around | 1 |
| 34 | White-faced Heron | Egretta novaehollandiae | Ashley Estuary; Hoopers Inlet (Dunedin); Auckland - Mission Bay (perched on a tree) | |
| 35 | Royal Spoonbill | Platalea regia | Roadside pond - 4 individuals near Te Anau; Hoopers Inlet (Dunedin) | 1 |
| 36 | Swamp (Australasian) Harrier | Circus approximans | Commonly seen quatering or soaring in roadside vegetation through N and S islands. | 1 |
| 37 | Takahe (Notornis) | Porphyrio hochstetteri | Zealandia (pair) and Tiritiri Matangi (single bird at East Coast Trail) | 1 |
| 38 | Pukeko (Purple Gallinule) | Porphyrio melanotus | Lake Rotorua; Hooper's Inlet; Tiritiri Matangi (with chicks) | 1 |
| 39 | Australian (Eurasian) Coot | Fulica atra | Lake Dunstan/Clyde Dam manmade lake between Mount Cook and Cromwell | |
| 40 | Bar-tailed Godwit | Limosa lapponica | Ashley Estuary | |
| 41 | South Island Pied Oystercatcher | Haematopus finschi | Ashley Estuary; Bluff; Catlins; Hooper's Inlet | 1 |
| 42 | Variable Oystercatcher | Haematopus unicolor | Ashley Estuary; Bluff; Catlins - nesting at Waipapa Point; Aramoana; Muriwai; Tiriti Matangi - nesting | 1 |
| 43 | Spur-winged Plover (Masked Lapwing) | Vanellus miles | Ashley Estuary; Mount Cook; Hooper's Inlet etc | |
| 44 | Pied (Black-winged) Stilt | Himantopus himantopus | Rotorua (Wai o Tapu); Ashley Estuary; Hooper's Inlet | |
| 45 | Banded Dotterel | Charadrius bicinctus | Ashley Estuary | 1 |
| 46 | Black-backed (Kelp) Gull | Larus dominicanus | Common in coastal areas (N and S islands) and even in Auckland city | |
| 47 | Red-billed (Silver) Gull | Larus novaehollandiae | Common in coastal areas (N and S islands) and cities; Chicks on Taiaroa Head | |
| 48 | Black-billed Gull | Larus bulleri | Ashley Estuary; Lake Pukaki area | 1 |
| 49 | Caspian Tern | Hydroprogne caspia | Ashley Estuary | 1 |
| 50 | Black-fronted Tern | Chlidonias albostriatus | Kaikoura | 1 |
| 51 | White-fronted Tern | Sterna striata | Bluff; Aramoana (The Mole); Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 52 | New Zealand Pigeon (Kereru) | Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae | Zealandia; Cascade Kauri; Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 53 | Rock Pigeon | Columba livia | In the cities; Tiritiri Matangi - only near habitated areas | |
| 54 | Kea (parrot) | Nestor notabilis | Milford Road (flock of 6 birds or individuals seen interacting with humans); none seen at Mount Cook despite searching | 1 |
| 55 | Kaka (parrot) | Nestor mieridionalis | Zealandia; just outside Zealandia (flying overhead) | 1 |
| 56 | Eastern Rosella | Platycercus eximius | Cascade Kauri | |
| 57 | Red-crowned Parakeet | Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae | Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 58 | Morepork (owl) | Ninox novaeseelandiae | Tiritiri Matangi - photographed a pair mating | 1 |
| 59 | Sacred Kingfisher | Todiramphus sanctus | Various places including Dunedin area and Tiritiri Matangi | |
| 60 | Welcome Swallow | Hirundo neoxena | Various places including Rotorua, Dunedin area | |
| 61 | Rifleman | Acanthisitta chloris | Mount Cook; Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 62 | Silvereye | Zosterops lateralis | Vairous places including Rotorua; Dunedin, Tiritiri Matangi etc | |
| 63 | Grey Warbler | Gerygone igata | Zealandia; Mount Cook | 1 |
| 64 | North Island Kokako | Callaeas wilsoni | Tiritiri Matangi - came right to the bunkhouse tree during lunch (last minute bird) | 1 |
| 65 | North Island Saddleback | Philesturnus rufusater | Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 66 | Tui (honeyeater) | Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae | Rotorua and many places; abundant on Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 67 | Stitchbird (Hihi) | Notiomystis cincta | Tiritiri Matangi - common bird at feeder | 1 |
| 68 | Bellbird (Korimako) | Anthornis melanura | Mount Cook (outside room at Hermitage Hotel); Tiritiri Matangi - common bird at feeder | 1 |
| 69 | Fernbird | Bowdleria punctata | Tiritiri Matangi (last minute bird after search around bunkhouse area) | 1 |
| 70 | Whitehead | Mohoua albicilla | Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 71 | Fantail | Rhipidura fuliginosa | Many places including Rotorua; Zealandia; Cascade Kauri etc | 1 |
| 72 | European Starling | Sturnus vulgaris | Not as common as Black Bird. Te Anau, Tiritiri Matangi (near habitation only) etc | |
| 73 | Common Myna | Acridotheres tristis | Not as common as Black Bird. Auckland, Tiritiri Matangi (near habitation only), Dunedin etc | |
| 74 | Australian Magpie | Gymnorhina tibicen | Roadside bird; Tiritiri Matangi (grassland area only) | |
| 75 | Tomtit | Petroica macrocephala | Mount Cook; Kepler Track; Cascade Kauri | 1 |
| 76 | North Island Robin | Petroica longipes | Zealandia; Tiritiri Matangi | 1 |
| 77 | South Island Robin | Petroica australis | Kepler Track (Te Anau) | 1 |
| 78 | Blackbird | Turdus merula | Everywhere - most common bird seen both in the city and bush | |
| 79 | Song Thrush | Turdus philomelos | Fairly common in parkland and suburban areas (eg. Mount Cook) | |
| 80 | Dunnock | Prunella modularis | Ashley Estuary; open country bird - seen quite a few times | 1 |
| 81 | Skylark | Alauda arvensis | Ashley Estuary; Hoopers Inlet (Dunedin); Tiritiri Matangi; Tunnel Beach Stack (Dunedin) | 1 |
| 82 | House Sparrow | Passer domesticus | 2nd most common bird seen - when fed, one bird will call the rest to feast | |
| 83 | Chaffinch | Fringilla coelebs | Rotorua - seen in thermal areas; Dunedin area etc | |
| 84 | Redpoll | Carduelis flammea | Christchurch (Avon Park); Ashley Estuary; Dunedin area etc | 1 |
| 85 | Goldfinch | Carduelis carduelis | Rotorua | |
| 86 | Yellowhammer | Emberiza citrinella | Ashley Estuary; Bluff; Dunedin area; Auckland area (Mount Eden) etc | 1 |
| Notable Misses: | ||||
| Wrybill (Ashley), Spotless Crake (Tiri), New Zealand Falcon, Missed the Encounter Kaikoura tour - Southern Royal Albatross and potentially a lot of other seabirds, New Zeland Dotterel (Tiri); Shining Cuckoo; Long-tailed Cuckoo; Yellow-crowned Parakeet; Yellowhead (Mohua); Rock Wren (Homer Tunnel - Milford); NZ Pipit | ||||
